We live in an area rife with apple orchards. Apple-picking is a perfectly acceptable autumn activity around here. And yet my husband and I continue to purchase our apples from the supermarket. We are not very locally grown as we’d like to be, I guess.

Nevertheless, when you have a large pile of apples that will go bad within the next few days, by God, you think of something to do with them. Sunday I thought, “Pancakes!” Not apple pancakes, no, no, I meant how about sauteed apples on TOP of pancakes? Luckily, Deb from Smitten Kitchen has just the thing.

I had absolutely no problem with the sweetness of these; my husband—SHOCK!!—did, however. Matt commented that these would make a good dessert pancake but I think I’ll stick to them as breakfast.

My only beef is that I couldn’t get the egg whites frothier, despite using a chilled bowl and utensils. Maybe I just don’t have the upper body strength.

Lemon Ricotta Pancakes with Sauteed Apples
Gourmet, September 1991

Servings: Makes about twelve 3- to 4-inch pancakes.

For the sauteed apples
4 large Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and sliced
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
fresh lemon juice to taste

For the pancakes
4 large eggs, separated
1 1/3 cups ricotta
1 1/2 tablespoons sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons freshly grated lemon zest
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
Melted butter for brushing the griddle

Maple syrup, as an accompaniment

Prepare the sauteed apples:
In a large heavy skillet saute the apples in the butter over moderately high heat, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes, or until they are softened, sprinkle them with the sugar and the cinnamon, and cook them over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, for 5 to 10 minutes, or until they are tender. Stir in the lemon juice and keep the mixture warm.

Make the pancakes:
In a bowl whisk together the egg yolks, the ricotta, the sugar, and the zest, add the flour, and stir the mixture until it is just combined. In a bowl with an electric mixer beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until they hold stiff peaks, whisk about one fourth of them into the ricotta mixture, and fold in the remaining whites gently but thoroughly. Heat a griddle over moderately high heat (Deb does not concur. She firmly believes that pancakes should be cooked medium-low.) until it is hot enough to make drops of water scatter over its surface and brush it with some of the melted butter. Working in batches, pour the batter onto the griddle by 1/4-cup measures and cook the pancakes for 1 to 2 minutes on each side, or until they are golden, brushing the griddle with some of the melted butter as necessary. Transfer the pancakes as they are cooked to a heatproof platter and keep them warm in a preheated 200°F oven.

Serve the pancakes with the sauteed apples and the maple syrup.