
The LSC and I spent our holiday weekend in the city and oh boy, was it totally worth it.
Admittedly, the weather didn’t play fair with us: serious driving rain and wind on Saturday then just windy and cold on Sunday. Despite the fact I obsessively check the weather wherever I go, and yes, I was well-aware that it was supposed to rain on Saturday, guess who forgot to pack umbrellas? ANYway, once we checked into the Hotel Lord Berri—imagine what a hotel room looks like, any one will do, and you will have pretty much seen what our room looked like—we decided to go explore. On the way to my girlie-glee mecca, Lush, we popped into a newsstand and purchased the cheapest umbrellas money could buy. In fact, they were so cheap that mine didn’t last the day. One good gust of wind and it turned it inside-out, ruining it.

I must say that even though I have spent the past nine years in a city, there are always things which set them apart from others. (Duh!) Montreal definitely has the feel of an European city. Walking up Rue St-Denis, even in the rain, with all the boutiques and shops, cozy restaurants, glittery and shiny pubs, was unlike anywhere I have been thus far. And though we were armed with our cheap umbrellas, before we could get too far, the LSC was insistent on stopping somewhere to get dry and get a drink. I couldn’t blame him; we looked like drowned rats. I don’t recall the name of where we stopped to grab a pint and peruse the Mirror but I do recall that it was fancier than where I like to do my drinking. Never mind, really, as that pint really hit the spot.

After dropping a pretty penny at Lush (thanks, sweetie!), we were going to meet the LSC’s friend, Max, for dinner or coffee and dessert. Unfortunately, Max couldn’t make it out but he did recommend a dining destination for us: Pho Bang New York, a Vietnamese joint in Chinatown. I adore Asian food even though I have to admit a lesser fondness for Westernized Chinese. Vietnamese is still the tops in my book.

I like Chinatowns. I like the commingled sense of the recognizable and the utterly foreign. There is something reassuring about seeing the slash of Asian languages across banners, glass windows, scrawled on walls. Anywhere in Chinatown smells good. You could almost eat the air, perfumed with grilled meats, strange spices and sugar.

Once we got to Pho Bang, we were served a steaming pot of white tea—really lovely after a drizzly day—and ordered Imperial rolls, tightly wrapped cigars filled with minced pork and veggies.

Pho Bang was a clean little jewel of a place: lots of white tile, communal seating at long tables, and for the LSC’s confirmation, a clutch of police busily slurping down crazy-huge bowls of pho. He maintains that the police know where all the best eats are but I’ve never really thought about it. I suppose it must be true.

After flipping through the photo-tastic menu, the LSC decided on grilled pork over rice. He was leaning towards a dish which would have served a variety of meats plus the rice, but he showed some restraint. Now that I think about it, I am really surprised that he didn’t order pho; I don’t think I’ve ever seen or heard of him ordering pho.

Because I am pure class, I kept trying not to make Big Trouble in Little China jokes. Of course, I properly shut up when our table was shared by a gaggle of Asian youth, most of whom looked half-preppy, half-gangster. I was thinking of those jokes though. It’s a wonder that the LSC puts up with me most times.

Now my husband and I both have benchmarks in our shared love of Asian cuisine. His is Pad Thai; whenever he goes to any Thai restaurant, he invariably orders it and claims he’s never had it taste the same way twice. Knowing that aggravated me and when I took him to eat Thai, I told him not to order it because he always gets it but I think I can let it slide now. As for me, I judge Vietnamese places by their grilled chicken with lemongrass rice; this particular version was quite good and outshined the pork dish, I was told by the LSC.

After dinner, we wandered around Chinatown, stopped in a bakery and purchased the following goodies:
* Taiwanese cream pastry
* giant Asian-rice krispie
* red bean paste bun
* sponge cake filled with cream
* a super-light almond popover
Bag of goodies in hand, we walked around Le Village, popping into the occasional store and then had a beer at Le Cheval Blanc.

The next morning we braved the windy cold to walk up to another Max-recommended eatery: Le Grille Pain (translation: The Toaster). On the way we grabbed a newspaper because there is nothing like a leisurely breakfast with coffee and news.

Breakfast was quite good; I had an unbelievably fresh glass of apple juice (visible a pic or two up) that made us wonder if they didn’t have a juicer in the back. My omelette was yummy, but being a cheese-fiend, I would have liked a more-pronounced cheddar in it.

We spent the remainder of the day continuing to explore, trying not to be too chilly. Montreal is lovely and seemingly immense; I find the juxtaposition of the modern and the Old-World pleasantly jostling. That evening we took the Metro up to NDG and had dinner with Matt’s uncle and aunt, his cousins and their respective partners and children.
Much wine and champagne was consumed, as was good food, and we returned that late that evening, sleepy but content.

Because you are reading my food blog, it is not very shocking that I adore food. The cooking of it, the reading about it, the learning, and of course, food stores!! On our way home, the LSC took me to the Atwater Market. This is the kind of place where I could easily spend a fortune. But before the LSC could let me turn loose with the savoring and looking, we had coffee and pastries. A cup of decaf and a banana-caramel muffin for me; a cup of regular joe and a chocolate croissant for him.

Oh, Atwater Market! If I lived in Montreal, I would spend weekends there, browsing amongst the boulangerie, the fromageries, the butchers and fishmongers! Selecting the fresher-than-fresh veggies, buying pots of herbs to plant in my own garden. It truly did remind me of the French Market, only a wider variety and nowhere near as many tchotchkes everywhere. The LSC and I purchased the following: a freshly made baguette, a loaf of olive bread (my favorite!), three kinds of cheeses, smoked almonds, wasabi peanuts, praline pecans, and a small box of artisanal chocolates. I was going to buy some veggies too, but we didn’t have proper storage to take them home. Next time, though, we will be ready.
*note for non-French speakers, a boulangerie is a bakery, a fromagerie is a cheese shop.

I can’t remember where we read it—I think it was in a free weekly that was in the hotel lobby—but we stopped at the Fete du Chocolat in Bromont, a teeny town fifty minutes of Montreal, towards home. Initially I was reluctant because while there were crowds of people on the sidewalk, I didn’t see anything that really resembled a festival. But having married a man who is persistent, we discovered the delights of the Fete du Chocolat. Six dollars and a ticket in the form of a chocolate bar and you sampled local and regional chocolatiers and other peddlars of artisanal foods.
My highlight: trying sharp cheddar dipped in a chocolate fountain; it sounds crazy, but it works! My lowlight: the raspberry chocolate macaron; I didn’t hate it, it just wasn’t what I was expecting. The LSC’s highlight was also the cheddar/chocolate combo and he also agreed with the macaron. We both agreed that perhaps if we tried a different flavor, we’d be more impressed. And of course, here’s the list of our purchases:
* three bottles of handmade maple-syrup-based vinaigrette: we got two bottle of the Dijon mustard kind and one of port.
* Two bags of flavored almonds: citrus lemon and ginger (those are two separate flavors, by the way)
* two jars of local mustard: a maple one and a almond/white wine one
* a bottle of beautiful-tasting very very very small batch of extra virgin olive oil (the proprietor owns his olive farm in Morocco)

But at long last, there was nothing better than getting home to our anxious cats, our quasi-tidy house, and making ourselves a snack with a glass of wine.

For dinner last night, we put together a lax variation on chicken satay (it’s that paste you see in the bowl above the chicken) and coconut-almond rice. It’s not a recipe, really, but you can find the recipe I used for the rice here. We had a really lovely holiday weekend and I hope you enjoy reading about it as much as I enjoyed writing about it.